Dressing for the Dow – The New York Times

Dressing for the Dow – The New York Times


On Thursday night the old American Stock Exchange building got a new look.

Not because of the gyrations of the Dow, which had all eyes suddenly fixed on Wall Street, but because the Italian brand Bottega Veneta had decided that for one season only it would move its joint men’s and women’s show from Milan to Manhattan, and it had chosen the early-20th-century limestone building on Trinity Place as its site.

Was it an implicit vote of confidence in the American economy, given that the move had been inspired by the opening of the biggest Bottega store in the world on Madison Avenue?


Slide Show

Bottega Veneta: Fall 2018

CreditGuillaume Roujas/Nowfashion


Nah: It was a space issue (albeit a coincidentally prescient one). Things in New York often are.

The building’s cavernous empty interior was big enough to allow Tomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega, in collaboration with the set designer Scott Pask (“The Book of Mormon”), to construct an entire skeletal apartment inside, complete with multiple living spaces filled with vintage Gio Ponti furniture, a chrome-plated sculpture by John Chamberlain, a working fireplace and (of course) Bottega Veneta home goods.

Photo

Bottega Veneta, fall 2018.

Credit
Karsten Moran for The New York Times

You know that question people always ask when they look at a fashion show? But where would you wear that? Well, this was Mr. Maier’s answer: as you venture forth into the big city from the safe haven of a fabulously decorated home to make your mark. Some developer is going to see these pictures and want to move right in.

So men and women in satin pajamas (the fabric chosen to reflect the glassy shine of the city’s midcentury skyscrapers), under enveloping two-tone outerwear in boiled mohair or suede bonded to satin or velvet, stalked the perimeter. Dresses had a skyline architecture, and jackets were built along the lines of a cube. There were burnt orange trouser suits for both sexes and plush velvet jumpsuits and gowns; and everything, including the bags (elaborate) and the details (many) had the exquisite attention of high craft, mixed with a certain urban realism.



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