The Reward Store on Guantánamo Bay

The Reward Store on Guantánamo Bay


Marines on the drive-through of the McDonald’s on the U.S. Navy base in Guantánamo Bay, Cuba.

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Tomas van Houtryve/Related Press

GUANTÁNAMO BAY, Cuba — A squad of army judges and legal professionals filed off a airplane right here not too long ago to carry hearings within the terrorism trial of Abd al-Rahim al-Nashiri, who’s accused of orchestrating the bombing of the American destroyer Cole in 2000. I used to be with them and had anticipated to be greeted by armed guards and razor wire. As an alternative we shared the tiny airport with a gaggle of children coming back from their highschool’s annual ski journey.

Sure, Guantánamo Bay, recognized for orange jumpsuits and abuse of detainees, has college area journeys. Additionally a McDonald’s, a bowling alley, a kickball league, Monday evening flamenco classes for folks and a reasonably good water slide within the middle of city. It’s the oddly small-town healthful Guantánamo you hardly ever hear about.

On a reporting journey final month to profile a former Navy SEAL who’s now a protection lawyer at Guantánamo, I used to be repeatedly struck by how one thing resembling suburban American life performed out beside a detention system so un-American that it has deliberately been stored off American soil. On one aspect of the wire stand buildings I used to be forbidden to and a detention facility, the place excessive worth detainees are held, that the army gained’t even acknowledge exists. On the opposite aspect, roughly 6,000 army troops and civilians stroll their daughters to the preschool previous tidy white stucco homes, check the avocados on the base grocery store and practice within the cool of the morning for the annual Guantánamo marathon, which runs alongside a land mine-salted perimeter of the bottom.

A single predominant road runs by means of the bottom. It begins on the gate to Cuba, the place diplomats from the 2 nations maintain month-to-month conferences, and winds alongside the bay to the ivory-colored, century-old Windward Level Lighthouse, perched on a grassy cliff above tough seashores of crushed coral. Alongside the street are wharves, piers and warehouses to service ships, but additionally an out of doors movie show, an espresso bar and a present store promoting “GTMO” shot glasses and tank tops.

The disconnect is partially due to Guantánamo’s lengthy historical past. It’s the oldest United States army set up on international soil, leased from Cuba since 1903 after the Spanish-American Struggle, when the U.S. Navy realized that the deep water harbor midway between Atlantic ports and the Panama Canal could be a great level for ships to tackle coal. For many years it was additionally the winter coaching hub of the Atlantic fleet.In latest occasions, the 45-square-mile Navy station, with its clear waters and murky authorized standing, has additionally served as a form of constitutional Room of Requirement the place the federal authorities may park individuals it wanted to be near the U.S., however, for authorized causes, not truly in it.

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